Dancing in the Streets
Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs of New Orleans
The history, artistry, and power of the Black parading tradition
520 Royal Street
Tricentennial Wing
3rd Floor
For nearly a year, the streets of New Orleans have been empty. Second lines—social aid and pleasure club parades—have been put on hold by the pandemic, marking the longest continuous interruption in a tradition stretching back generations. With origins in Black mutual aid societies founded to support African Americans and Afro-Creoles at a time when they were denied many social services, the clubs and their parades have become one of the city’s defining cultural practices. Full of color and artistry, music and footwork, and friends and neighbors, the parades provide a weekly physical and symbolic gathering place for Black history and expression.
Dancing in the Streets brings together historical photographs and archival footage by Jules Cahn and Michael P. Smith from the Historic New Orleans Collection with contemporary objects collected by the late Sylvester Francis of the Backstreet Cultural Museum and by the late Ronald W. Lewis of the House of Dance and Feathers, as well as from individual club members. Parade regalia—from full suits to elaborate baskets and fans—gives viewers an up-close look at the unique artistry of second line parades.
This artistry is vividly on display in the work of 12 contemporary photographers included in the exhibition: Judy Cooper, Brad Edelman, L. J. Goldstein, Ryan Hodgson-Rigsbee, Pableaux Johnson, Charles Muir Lovell, MJ Mastrogiovanni, Leslie Parr, Akasha Rabut, Vincent Simmons, J. R. Thomason, and Eric Waters. A companion audio guide, created in collaboration with the Neighborhood Story Project, features interviews with club members discussing the objects on display.
Gallery Views
Dedication
In 2020 New Orleans lost two of its most devoted culture bearers: Sylvester Francis of the Backstreet Cultural Museum and Ronald W. Lewis of the House of Dance and Feathers. Both men created and curated museums devoted to the history of social aid and pleasure clubs and African American masking traditions in New Orleans. Dancing in the Streets is dedicated to their memory. Their legacy goes far beyond the parading community, informing both the creation of Dancing in the Streets and the Collection’s approach to community partnerships going forward.
Sylvester Francis
Founded in 1999 by photographer, videographer, author, and historian Sylvester “Hawk” Francis (1946–2020), the Backstreet Cultural Museum has presented the history and culture of social aid and pleasure clubs and Black masking traditions for over two decades.
Sylvester Francis
Founded in 1999 by photographer, videographer, author, and historian Sylvester “Hawk” Francis (1946–2020), the Backstreet Cultural Museum has presented the history and culture of social aid and pleasure clubs and Black masking traditions for over two decades. A member of the Gentlemen of Leisure Social Aid and Pleasure Club, Francis’s interest in documenting the tradition began when a photographer offered to sell him a photo of himself in his parade outfit. He determined to photograph as many parades as he could, giving one copy of the photos to the subjects and keeping one for himself—a methodology he came to call cultural return. His first camera was a Brownie Hawkeye, hence the nickname “Hawk.” He subsequently purchased a Super 8 camera with which to document jazz funerals, second lines, and Black Carnival traditions.
In 1990 Francis began collecting physical items, starting with a mask worn that year by Victor Harris for his Spirit of Fi Yi Yi Mardi Gras Indian suit. It became the first acquisition for a museum housed in a two-car garage behind his Seventh Ward home. In 1999 Francis moved his collection into the former Blandin Funeral Home in Treme, which had been the starting point of many jazz funerals. The museum has become a treasured community center and cultural landmark. Francis would often give personal tours to visitors, and he distributed route sheets for upcoming second lines to anyone interested.
After a half century spent working to preserve Black history and culture, Francis passed away September 1, 2020. His legacy survives in the deep, lasting contributions he made to the city’s cultural fabric and in the museum, which continues under the stewardship of Francis’s daughter Dominique Dilling Francis.
Ronald W. Lewis
Ronald W. Lewis (1951–2020) of New Orleans’s Ninth Ward was a founder of the Original Big Nine Social and Pleasure Club, a Mardi Gras Indian with the Choctaw Hunters, a visual artist who made suits for both groups, a member of the North Side Skull and Bone Gang, and an author, historian, collector, and curator.
Ronald W. Lewis
Ronald W. Lewis (1951–2020) of New Orleans’s Ninth Ward was a founder of the Original Big Nine Social and Pleasure Club, a Mardi Gras Indian with the Choctaw Hunters, a visual artist who made suits for both groups, a member of the North Side Skull and Bone Gang, and an author, historian, collector, and curator. In 2003 he founded the House of Dance and Feathers, a museum dedicated to Black parading culture and history located behind his Ninth Ward home on Tupelo Street. A close friend of Sylvester Francis, Lewis credited Francis and the Backstreet Cultural Museum with inspiring him to exhibit his own collection in his own neighborhood. “I thought cultural education was the missing part in the Lower Ninth Ward of New Orleans, and I’ve worked to help create a museum to fill in this blank,” he said in The House of Dance and Feathers: A Museum, cowritten with Rachel Breunlin of the Neighborhood Story Project and published in 2009.
Lewis died of complications from COVID-19 on March 20, 2020, but his passion for his work and community will live on, inspiring those who knew and admired him.
Francis, Lewis, and the Making of Dancing in the Streets
As museum directors, authors, and longtime parade participants, Francis and Lewis worked alongside their fellow culture bearers, building collections and telling the stories of those practicing and preserving Black parading traditions.
Francis, Lewis, and the Making of Dancing in the Streets
As museum directors, authors, and longtime parade participants, Francis and Lewis worked alongside their fellow culture bearers, building collections and telling the stories of those practicing and preserving Black parading traditions. The nonprofit publisher Neighborhood Story Project (NSP) collaborated with Lewis to create his book, The House of Dance and Feathers: A Museum (2009), and with Francis on the collaborative ethnography Fire in the Hole: The Spirit Work of Fi Yi Yi and the Mandingo Warriors (2018).
Following the examples of these partnerships, HNOC has built Dancing in the Streets in collaboration with the NSP and more than 30 club founders, presidents, longtime members, and others represented in the photographs on display. All of the quoted material used in the show, unless otherwise noted, comes from interviews conducted by NSP for HNOC. We are proud to carry the legacy of Lewis and Francis into this exhibition and beyond: at the end of the run of the show, HNOC and the NSP will make the full narratives from these interviews available through HNOC’s online catalog. Excerpts from the interviews also comprise the Second Line Community Voices audio guide, an online experience that can be enjoyed in the gallery or off-site.
Explore
“Dancing in the Streets” Club Narratives
Learn about the social and pleasure clubs of New Orleans through interviews with more than 30 club founders, presidents, and members.
Explore the Virtual Exhibition
Explore the social aid and pleasure clubs of New Orleans in our Dancing in the Streets virtual exhibition, presented through Google Arts and Culture.
Related Stories
North Side Skull and Bone Gang: “You Next!”
Bruce Sunpie Barnes, big chief of the North Side Skull and Bone Gang, describes a Mardi Gras Black masking tradition.
From the Streets to the Fairgrounds
From the beginning, Jazz Fest sought to showcase culture bearers like Mardi Gras Indians and Black parading clubs alongside musicians.
Music Makers
We talked to HNOC Visitor Services Assistant Douane Waples about what it’s like to play in a New Orleans brass band.
Remembering DJ Action Jackson
New Orleans’s “ambassador to the second line” leaves a lasting legacy.
Related Exhibitions
Dancing in the Streets: Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs of New Orleans
The history, artistry, and power of the Black parading tradition
Related Books
Subscribe to Our Newsletter